This one turned out long so read when you have the time…..
Had a somewhat restless night’s sleep. Woke early AM and was way too hot. Cranked the fan up a bit and fell back asleep about an hour later. Woke about 8am to the sound of a leaf-blower. I haven’t heard a leaf-blower since I left Portland. So that kind of symbolizes a little of the difference between the Ex-pat community that lives in Lake Chapalla and where I’m at in Tlaquepaque.
Lake Chapalla was not what I expected for an ExPat community. The ExPat community is really a pretty small little group inside a traditional Mexican village. I will describe the several little towns all as one since they’re pretty similar and the gringo population is different size in each, but the environment is pretty much the same.
The actual lake is big. It’s the biggest lake in Mexico. The town of Luago Chapalla used to be a high-end resort town for the upper class of Guadalajara. Several years ago, the level of the lake dropped considerably so the resort was quite removed from the lake and there was a large area of barren land between the town and the lake. Hence is much less of a destination than it was before. Over the past few years, the lake level has returned to normal and the town is starting to get new building and growing again.
The towns are (my observation) typical small Mexican communities. Narrow streets (all one way) with room for parking on one side and thoroughfare on the other. The roads are almost all cobblestone and the workers place each rock by hand and tap it in firmly with a hammer so that it “sets”. The sidewalks are really built for one person to walk on. When people oppose each other, one steps in the street or into a doorway. The building are traditional Mexican, mostly brick with some stucco work on the exterior. It feels like Mexico.
Then there are the “colonies”… These are the tracks of land that were broken into lots and sold for new building. Generally these are still mostly Mexican owned but have a high percentage (maybe 30% on average) of gringos. The houses are all modern with a Mexican flavor, but North American architecture and amenities have definitely crept in. Almost all houses are walled in. I.e. you can never really see someones house. So it’s a bit strange to drive through a sub division of walls…. Some have gates with bars so you can see inside, but most have steel doors that are impervious to sight.
Quite a few of the local businesses are owned by gringos. I think there were more restaurants here than any other place I’ve seen in Mexico, especially for the size of the towns. We had a wonderful dinner last night at a modern style resturant. If you pictured an Olive Garden with a terrace for ambiance you wouldn’t be far off. The food was great. I had a “Global” something… It was shrimp, crab and scallops all baked in a very light pastry. Very yummy and was only like $100p (about $8.50). Vegetables were fresh and the bread and patte was good too.
This morning Joy and I went out to breakfast at a little restaurant on the square. It was filled with gringos, most of them seemingly in their 70’s. Many of them knew Joy and came by to say hi. The food was okay. Not great, but not bad either. But the bill for our breakfast consisting of waffles, orange juice, coffee, omlette, hashbrowns, etc. for both of us came to $94p (about $8.40).
The gringos seem to mostly be older (60’s and 70’s) and seem to live in their own world. I’m sure they have significant impact on the community around them and hope that the community impacts them as well. They do not speak Spanish amongst each other and there are a lot of little dogs with groomed coats. A lot of “Fi Fi’s”. The woman dress much like they (I assume) would dress if they lived in the states. Same with most of the men. Kind of like they moved their world down here and are a small American town living inside of a Mexican community. Almost like Sun City in Phoenix but on a much smaller scale. There are a lot of resources here for gringos. They have their own little community center, library, etc. All the things to keep people busy who really have nothing to do.
We then strolled through the streets of Ajijic (pronounced ah-he-hec) and along the lakefront. Very pleasant. We checked out a few shops but I bought nothing. Most was typical tourist fare. There were some real hand-crafts by locals but it was mostly jewelry or photographs that I wasn’t interested in.
Came back for our little jaunt and I settled in for a quick nap reading the local English newspaper. It’s a little out of date since thefront page headline was that there are cases of the pig flu in Jalisco now but then a 2nd page article talked about the schools, bars, etc. all reopening on Monday. But the Monday date has now been extended to the following Monday and that’s after I leave.
I drained some email and hung out and talked. I read some stories Joy had written while she was in school about our time raising dairy goats and living 11 1/2 miles up a dead end gravel road in Southern Oregon where our son Dan was born. Reflected on those times and it really feels like it was an entirely different life. The guy writing this today is a very different man than they guy who grew pot at the rear of their 10 acres of land!
We talked about our time together, the divorce, changes that have occurred in each of our lives, etc. It was all very pleasant. Some things were brought to my attention that I have to process and think about. But then there were also points of view by Joy that have been somewhat twisted over the years. But it’s all good and the facts of the past really don’t matter in the grand scheme of things.
We stopped for lunch at an English Pub and BBQ (nice mix). Had some pork ribs (no flu) which were very good. Then we hit a pharmacy so I could pick up some hydrocortozone cream that’s 2 1/2 times as strong as I can buy in the states. They then dropped me off at the bus station for the trip back to Guadalajara.
Joy seems very happy here. She’s been here about 8 years now and with her counseling practice, most all the gringos know her. She writes an article in the local newspaper and is somewhat a notoriety. This is good for the ego and helps her feel like she matters and has importance in the lives of others. This is a good thing. I sometimes feel like I don’t have impact in others lives and know that when I feel I do, that it is a satisfying feeling. I don’t think the Ex-Pat lifestyle would be for me though. But I’m glad it’s working for her.
Had to wait about 30 minutes for the next bus so had some more quiet time. The bus trip was pleasant and uneventful. When I got back to the Old Bus Station in Guadalajara I decided to go for a walk instead of heading directly back to Tlaquapaque. Had a nice conversation with a guy on the street whose English was worse than my Spanish. Was fun. Not a lot of information passed since neither of us could really ask or say what we wanted to, but both tried hard and you could just tell that it was simply out of interest and being friendly. I think we parted with “Obama, me gusto”!
I then caught a bus back to Tlaquapaque, had a nice Frezzer Fresa at the San Pedro Cafe. Talked with a couple of young gals who work in a bank (but banks will now be closed) who asked if they could “use my fire”. So I lit their cigarettes for them, told them it was a “lighter” and we talked about pig flu for a bit. They left, I finished up and came back to la casa for a nice shower to rinse Guadalajara off of me. Guadalajara isn’t a bad place. But it’s a big city with lots of buses. Hence when you have a layer of sweat (always) and walk through the streets, Guadalajara just kind of sticks to you. Was good to feel refreshed and sit back and watch the lightning and thunder show….
Things I learned today:
- Memory can be deceptive (or missing) and is sometimes adjusted to match our feelings
- I would not want to move to a foreign country and bring my lifestyle with me
- People are people no matter what ethnicity they are, what language they speak nor where they happen to be living. There are good and bad among us and I need to simply trust my intuition and move through life’s encounters.
All and all, a pretty good day.
tonyb 2009 Guadalajara, Daily Ramblings, travel
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